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Good photography starts before you press the shutter. It starts with understanding what you want to photograph and choosing equipment that suits your preferences and ambitions. In the vast jungle of cameras, housings, lenses, lights and accessories, and it can be a daunting task to choose. It can also be tempting to believe that adding another piece of equipment will solve the shortcomings of the one you already have ("gear accumulation syndrome"). Often, however, the better answer is to understand what your existing system does well and learn how to work within its limitations.
Every type of camera and accessory comes with its own set of strengths and compromises. At Bubbles & Lenses, we believe there is no single “best” setup. We teach you how to make the most of the equipment you have by taking advantage of its strengths, and making better photographic decisions because of them.
If after reading this article you are still at a loss regarding what to get for yourself, don't worry! We are here to help you navigate the complexity and challenges of underwater photography.
In absolute, DSLRs and mirrorless (full frame to μ4:3) camera bodies offer superior quality and resolution, allowing you to print your photos on the side of a massive gothic church. When underwater, it usually comes with weight, bulk and a huge amount of task loading and a high financial risk in case of failure.
You can also start with a good compact camera. These are less intimidating for beginners and still capable of producing excellent images. Many pictures we publish on our website are shot with one. They have the ability to accompany your progression from beginner to advanced. By the time you outgrow your camera, you will know exactly why.
Smartphone or action camera are very small, all-in-one systems. There are light and easy to travel with, simple to operate but do not always offer the control you need to compose and later edit your pictures and films... especially after being sealed in a housing.
For those of you leaning towards interchangeable lens systems, did it ever occur to you that, unlike on land (which divers call "topside"), you cannot change lens when underwater? Rather than purchasing multiple lenses, you can limit your selection to a versatile wide-angle lens or a macro lens, depending on your interests. Wide-angle lenses are great for capturing expansive scenes and large marine life, while macro lenses excel at photographing small subjects and intricate details.
Underwater housing: the protective case that seals your camera, keeping it dry and safe from harm while diving. It's essential for underwater photography because it allows you to use your camera at depths where it would otherwise be ruined by water (like a submarine). However, using underwater housing adds bulk and complexity, which can make it harder to manoeuvre and control your buoyancy, potentially leading to more challenging diving conditions and increased risk of damaging your equipment or disturbing marine life.
The most important aspect of an underwater camera setup is the housing and how it fits neatly around your camera. Ensure that the housing you choose is designed for your specific camera model, allows full access to all controls and can adapt to your favorite lens.
Look for housings made from robust materials capable of withstanding the pressure at depth (depth rating). Typically, modern housing are made of polycarbonate or aluminium (or other metal/alloy). Even if you don’t plan to dive deep, a higher depth rating generally means better durability over the years. In our experience, underwater camera housings can cost from 1x to 3x the cost of the camera. Indeed, more advanced cameras have more features and buttons. The more buttons have to be drilled in the case, the more the possible failure points. This requires manufacturers to further research, develop and test their products which leads to higher prices. Housing features (seals, locking mechanisms, vaccum pump port, lens port, positive/negative buoyancy) and nearby servicing and spare part availability can also factor into your purchase decision.
$-$$ - Polycarbonate housing: lightweight, often positively bouyant unless weighted, made of a plastic material that may degrade over time. Entry models often lack port expansion.
$$$ - Aluminium housing: heavier, more durable and usually higher depth rating, highly customizable, negative buoyancy often compensated with floaters
$-$$ - Smartphone housing: compact, light, familiar, limited controls, wide range of compatibility with phones
Smartphone housings are becoming increasingly popular, thanks to their affordability, compactness and accessibility. As most divers already use a smartphone daily and already know how to operate the camera app and its controls, the learning curve to use the equipment is relatively gentle. The large screen provides accurate feedback making composing the shot easy and comfortable compared to an action camera (tiny or no screen at all) or a DSLR (especially without live view).
But convenience comes with trade-offs. Depending on the phone and housing, some of the compromises worth considering include:
Limited manual control. While some high-end smartphones and third-party camera apps offer control over the Trinity of light (shutter speed, ISO, and aperture), the native camera experience on smarthpones is generally designed for point-and-shoot "intelligent auto" photography. Computational photography is heavily optimised for land, and underwater conditions can challenge those algorithms.
Limited physical controls. Many housings provide access to only a handful of buttons. Adjusting settings may therefore require navigating menus or interacting with the phone’s screen, something that can be cumbersome underwater, particularly when trying to maintain buoyancy and composition at the same time, thus increasing task loading rather than reducing it.
Touchscreen limitations. Full touchscreen access can make a housing very approchable and familiar, but touchscreen responsiveness can vary between designs and may become less reliable with water pressure at depth. Progress is in the works and manufacturers are addressing the issue but the infinite combination of factors leads to a variety of user experiences.. A housing that works on a shallow reef is not necessarily equally convenient when reaching recreational diving depths.
Dependence on a dedicated app. Most housings require the manufacturer’s own camera application. Before buying, it is worth looking beyond the housing itself and spending some time with the app: its user interface, available controls and workflow may have as much influence on your photographic experience as the hardware.
What else do you use your phone for? A smartphone is not just a camera. It may also be your means of communication, navigation or accessing emergency information once back on the surface. A housing failure does not necessarily mean losing the phone, but it does introduce an additional risk to a device you may rely on for purposes beyond photography.
None of these limitations necessarily makes a smartphone housing a poor choice. For divers who value compactness, simplicity and the ability to share images quickly, the advantages can easily outweigh the compromises. The important question is not whether a smartphone can produce good underwater photographs, which it certainly can... but whether its particular combination of optics, computational photography, controls and housing design matches the kind of photography you want to practise. What matters is how you see and approach your subject, compose your shot, control your light and anticipate your interaction while underwater.
Strobes (flash) or underwater continuous lighting (videolight or torchlight) are crucial for bringing out the true colours and details in your photos. They may also open the door to more creative options (fluo dive, black water, colored filters, snoots, front or rear curtain). While dual light sources can provide better lighting coverage, they also add complexity and failure points and increase your task load underwater.
If you are not yet comfortable diving with large sensitive equipment, you can start with one light before considering additional strobes... or no light at all! An entire branch of underwater photography is done in natural lighting, under the sun.
Strobes (flash) deliver a powerful burst of light upon trigger
Videolights continuously shower the scene with constant light
The world of underwater photography offers endless customization options. Here is a quick overview of other accessories out there for your consideration. There's enough to make your head spin!
Arms
Clamps
Trays
Floaters
Lens ports
Converters
Your scuba gear should be comfortable and well-fitted to avoid any distractions while photographing. An ill-fitting mask with narrow vision, or an uncomfortable wetsuit can ruin a dive and impact your ability to take good photos. Try before you buy.
Also remember your Open Water course and keep your scuba setup streamlined to reduce drag and make it easier to manoeuvre underwater. Avoid attaching unnecessary gear that can snag or cause entanglement.
As you can imagine, all we have discussed above will lead to increased weight and bulk that you will need to lug around on your trips. Based on your research and pre-dive planning, try to pack smart and travel only with the necessary equipment. Hard shell Pelican cases are tough and rugged but may not be enough to protect sensitive photography equipment against unfortunate mishandling of your luggage (loss, damage). Check airline restrictions and local regulations regarding diving and photography equipment to save you from bad surprises.
Focus on Skills: good photography is more about skill than gear. Focus on improving your technique, understanding lighting, and mastering composition before accumulating more equipment.
Quality Over Quantity: high-quality, well-chosen gear that you are comfortable using will always outperform a setup full of equipment hooked to your BCD like a Christmas tree. Invest in a few good pieces of equipment and learn to use them well.
Simplicity is Key: a simple setup allows you to focus more on your subjects.
Complexity in Handling: managing more gear can be overwhelming, especially for beginners, and may result in missed shots or even damage to your equipment if something goes wrong.
Increased Drag and Buoyancy Issues: for each piece of gear you attach to your underwater camera rig, more drag is created. This makes it harder to swim and manoeuvre, causing you to use more energy and air. Additionally, more equipment can affect your buoyancy, making it difficult to maintain a stable position for shooting.
Risk of Entanglement: excessive gear increases the risk of entanglement with marine life, corals, and underwater structures. This not only poses a safety hazard but also risks damaging the delicate underwater environment you’re there to photograph.
Maintenance and Troubleshooting: More gear requires more maintenance and increases the chances of something going wrong. Keeping your setup simple minimizes potential issues and allows you to focus more on your photography.
We believe that choosing the right gear for underwater photography doesn’t have to be a complex or expensive endeavour. By focusing on essential items and understanding their functions, you can avoid the pitfalls of gear accumulation syndrome. Remember, the key to great underwater photography lies in your skills and creativity, not the amount of gear you own. With Bubbles & Lenses, develop your photography and diving skills with confidence and enjoy capturing the beauty of the underwater world.